A day in Turin: your breakfast, lunch, and dinner guide

Baci di dama, Italian Pidemontese cookies. Image by Rollopack. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

Kisses are the best way to start a day, right? In Northern Italy, folks seem to understand it better than anywhere else in the world. One of the dishes they’ve come up with there is baci di dama, which means “kisses of a lady,” a popular breakfast option. These kisses are essentially butter cookies with rich hazelnut flavor and an interlayer of chocolate. The recipe is believed to have been compiled in the second half of the 19th century in Piedmont’s Tortona, a town well-known for its hazelnut farms. As a matter of fact, baci di dama appeared as one of the ways to get rid of make use of surplus harvest.

The Italian butter cookies with chocolate we are accustomed to today were formalized in 1919 by Pasquale and Rinaldo Balzola, pastry chefs (father and son) in service of Vittorio Emanuele III, Italy’s king from 1932 to 1938. The recipe hasn’t changed since then, which definitely puts baci di dama among the classics you, as a gourmet, simply have to eat in Turin (or in Tortona, of course).

Gerla 1927 Ristorante Caffetteria belongs to the Gerla family of establishments, which has been in business since 1927, as the figure in the name indicates. The chain prides itself on upkeeping traditions in everything that concerns cooking, especially the sweet section of the menu. Baci di dama are exceptional here, and if you work up an appetite for something more substantial, it’s a full-fledged restaurant, there’s a lot on the offer.

Tramezzini, sandwiches from Turin. Image by 8photo, from Freepik

Bread crust often acts as an ingredient in its own right, and an indispensable one. There are also numerous recipes that are incomplete without stale bread, easily replaced by crusts. Finally, toasts with jam don’t exactly cut it without their crunchy sides (subjective opinion). However, for some dishes, they are deliberately removed.

Meet tramezzini, Italian sandwiches invented, as the story goes, in Turin’s Caffè Mulassano back in 1925. In most cases, they are triangular (famous Italian design?) slices of bread, top and bottom, with crusts removed. The typical fillings are shredded tuna, prosciutto, olives, and cheese, plus optional mayonnaise, but it really is a matter of how inventive the cook feels on this particular morning.

Why remove the crust? There’s no single answer to this question, at least, we failed to find one. Likely, the idea was to make something different, and it worked exceptionally well. Nowadays, you can even buy crustless bread made specifically for tramezzini, so if you want a Torino breakfast in your home, find a loaf in your local store, and get creative with the fillings!

There is no special spot in the center of Turin that can be called the best one to start your exploration of the city from. Any piazza (square), any pocket park, any intersection, for that matter, will do. Torino, as mentioned above, is flat and very walkable, you’ll get around easily. But if you’re looking for a breakfast place, then Trivè Time at Via Giovanni Amendola, 12/B, is one of the best choices. They make hearty sandwiches here (including tramezzini) and brew outstanding coffee, and what’s better to set off a day with?

Pizza al padellino, traditional pizza from Piedmont and Turin. Image by lifrforstock, from Freepik

Looking for a really hearty breakfast in Turin? Order pizza al padelino. It may feel a bit of an overkill for Italians, so don’t be surprised by your waiter’s raised eyebrow, but a perfectly filling morning meal in Piedmont’s capital requires that local gem, period.

Pizza al padellino is native to Torino, so you simply can’t afford missing your chance of eating it here. One of its origin theories points to Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s king in the first half of the 19th century, as the one to popularize the dish, which was one of its favorites. Factor in all the regional varieties of this Italian gem found throughout the country, and see another reason to try this pie there: in other cities and towns of the Boot, it simply may not be on the menus.

Pan pizza (that’s a simpler name, but avoid using this label in Turin) is baked in deep small pans, with toppings anything from veggies through meats to all sorts of cheese, and mixes thereof. Compared to its more regular counterparts, it turns out softer and taller, and its crust may be darker because of oil the pan is covered with before receiving the dough. Chicago’s famous deep dish pizza is probably a descendant of this Piedmontese cuisine staple, and when a recipe breeds offshoots, it certainly is worth a try.

If you believe a pizzeria is a place where you can only get the famous Italian pies plus fries plus soda, then you’ll be surprised by some of the establishments bearing this label in Turin. They are restaurants with no “buts,” full-scale. Like Il Padellino at Corso Vinzaglio, 21, which points to the Turinese variant of pizza in its name, and yet carries much more than that. Although, it is definitely wise to make this eatery a destination specifically for pizza al padellino, it’s baked in a wood-fired oven here and borders on perfection.

Tajarin al tartufo bianco d’Alba, Piedmontese exquisite dish. Image by Takeaway. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

Even if you haven’t tried them yet, you’ve certainly heard about truffles. They are some of the most expensive foods on the planet: distinctly seasonal, next to impossible to farm, and scarce in the wild. You may find them labeled superfood, but, although truffles are high in antioxidants, carbs, and proteins, they aren’t exceptional, so it’s all about the taste.

Tartufo bianco d’Alba, or Alba white truffle (Tuber magnatum Pico), is the rarest of them all. It is wild, harvested mostly around Piedmont’s town of Alba (thus the name). Italy has made it into one of its most valued exports, but not everything goes abroad, of course, a hefty share of this precious fungi (technically, truffles and mushrooms are cousins at best) is consumed domestically.

And one of the most touted dishes with white truffles is tajarin al tartufo bianco d’Alba. Its recipe is quite simple: hand-made taglierini, some butter, black pepper, and the pride of Piedmont. As you understand, there’s no other place on Earth to eat this truffle pasta at as Turin. Given the exclusivity of its key ingredient, this masterpiece is probably best enjoyed for dinner, in the evening, with wine and candles; we’ve put it in the lunch section of this piece because it’s pasta, mostly carbs that give you energy, something you’ll definitely need to continue your exploration of Turin.

Tajarin al tartufo bianco d’Alba is an exquisite dish, so it’s best to find an upscale restaurant for a first taste thereof. Ristorante Solferino is exactly that, a fine-dining establishment in the center of Turin, at Piazza Solferino, 3/B. It is surrounded by sights and attractions, including Piazza San Carlo, Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist (built in the 15th century), and the famous Egyptian Museum (second only to its counterpart in Cairo), so coming here for lunch or dinner is simply natural.

Bagna càuda, Italian Pidemontese dip for vegetables. Image by Masaaki Komori. Licence CC BY-SA 2.0. Cropped from original

Sometimes, dishes that originally belong to one country become so popular in another that they are widely considered to belong to the culinary customs of the latter and not the former. In Italian cuisine, its Piedmontese subdomain, this is the case of bagna càuda, which literally means “hot bath.”

This is a savory dip originally made of anchovies, garlic, and olive oil, served with vegetables to be partially immersed in the mixture and consumed. The dish was invented in Provence of France, but has been a hit throughout northern Italy since the 16th century, and nowadays, it’s considered more Italian than French.

In restaurants of Turin, bagna càuda can be offered as a side to something more weighty, or a starter of a two or three-course meal, or a standalone meal. The dip mixture can include milk, butter, walnut oil, cream, and whatever other ingredients the chef may decide to add thereto; the vegetables may be not raw but boiled or roasted. Previously, this dish was served in a single bowl, peila, and everyone at the table shared it. Today, though, when you order bagna càuda, it’s likely to arrive in a fojòt, a terra cotta fondue pot.

Google Maps annotation of this place reads: “Old-school venue making traditional Piedmontese cuisine & known for its bagna càuda.” This dish is also the one that reviewers mention often here. Of course, the menu has many other items, most of them local and hard to come by anywhere else, so visiting this restaurant is a must if you want to learn the authentic taste of Piedmont and Turin.

Gnocchi, Italian Pidemontese potato dish. Image by Sharon. Licence CC BY-SA 2.0. Cropped from original

As a base for dishes, their core ingredient, potatoes have been rivaling grain in the Old World since they were brought here from the New one. This rivalry, though, sometimes yielded exceptional results, of which gnocchi is perhaps the best example.

These potato dumplings are made from a combination of flour, cooked potatoes, and eggs. This dough is separated into pieces, rolled and cut into small cylinders, which are then pan-fried or boiled until ready. Of course, this is the basic recipe that’s been around since the 16th century; gnocchi of today can have pumpkin added for a special tint, or some spinach, or dill. You can also find little lumps (this is what the word gnocchi means) with ground meat as the key source of flavor.

It is believed that gnocchi were invented in Northern Italy, because it’s easier to farm potatoes here than grain. Thus, Piedmont’s Turin is one of the best places in the world to eat this dish at. You can get it as a side, or a first course of lunch (instead of soup), or a meal in its own right, complete with white or red sauces, the former based on cheese and the latter on tomatoes.

Pastificio Defilippis is one of the oldest establishments in Turin (and the entire Italy, for that matter): it was founded in 1872 and continues putting all the Italian cuisine staples on its tables up to this very moment. Plus, there’s a take-out counter here, if you’re not looking to stay. Of course, it’s much more than gnocchi you can have at Pastificio Defilippis, and, what’s probably as important, it won’t cost you a fortune: despite its venerability, this restaurant keeps its prices friendly to everyone.

Bollito misto, Italian Piedmontese meat platter. Image by choctaw_ridge. Licence CC BY-SA 2.0. Cropped from original

These types of guides for gourmets on Restaurant Guru often feature stews in the dinner section, and for a good reason: this concept always yields something satisfyingly filling and tasty. When you think of something melting in your mouth, it is either ice-cream or a piece of meat that’s been simmered for hours in broth, alongside vegetables, spices, and seasonings.

Bollito misto piemontese is as close as we get to a stew in this gastronomic guide to Turin. The dish, in this or that form, counts at least a half a dozen centuries of history; its name translates to “mixed boiled,” which reflects the essence thereof perfectly. The classic recipe prescribes 5 cuts of beef, plus pieces of pork and chicken. The meats are boiled in separate pots, for several hours, accompanied by only carrots, onions, and celery. Whatever froth accumulates is removed, and the stock is used afterwards as base for soups and risottos.

In Turin, any Piedmontese cuisine restaurant that bears this label justly will serve you this meat platter (don’t use this name before your waiter, though, call it bollito misto only). It’ll likely land before you married to a sauce, which can be salsa verde (green sauce), salsa rossa (red sauce), mostarda (fruits with mustard seed oil), and salsa al cren (horseradish sauce). “Opulent” is what comes to mind upon seeing this dish in reality; if you’re carnivorous to the bone, this one is a must-try in Torino.

Tre Galline at Via Gian Francesco Bellezia, 37, is an interesting spot: it occupies a space that, according to the local legend, has been an eatery for centuries. Current incarnation isn’t very old, but they excel at honoring traditions and serve Piedmontese cuisine dishes made as prescribed in the old cookbooks. Bollito misto piemontese is one of the specialties of the house, so if you happen to be around Palatine Gate, for example, in the evening, come here for a filling dinner.

Vitello tonnato, Italian Piedmontese veal with sauce. Image by Benreis. Licence CC BY-SA 4.0. Cropped from original

Sometimes, it’s better to have a light dinner than a full-fledged several-course evening feast. Especially if you’ve started your day not with baci di dama but pizza al padellino, and had a two-course lunch with gnocchi as a starter and a full plate of tajatin al tartufo bianco d’Alba as its crown. 

In Piedmont, Italy’s North, a light antipasto dinner is vitello tonnato. The recipe is believed to have been invented in this region sometime in the 18th century, but the first written account thereof appeared in La Cucina degli Stomachi Deboli, a cookbook published in the middle of the 19th century.

The approach to this elegant dish hasn’t changed much since then. The cuts are coscia (leg), magatello (top round), girello (eye round), or fesa (bottom sirloin); they are marinated in a mixture of wine, garlic, bay leaves and seasonings for at least 12 hours, then boiled until ready and served cut into thin slices, under a creamy tuna sauce that also incorporates anchovies and capers. This is, give or take, what you will receive when ordering vitello tonnato in Turin.

Le Vitel Etonné is a cozy wine cellar and a Piedmontese cuisine restaurant located 500 m from such landmarks and attractions as Piazza Carlo Alberto, Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano, Piazza Carlo Emanuele II, and Fondazione Accorsi – Museo di Arti Decorative. All of them deserve your attention, and afterwards, you have the option of descending to Le Vitel Etonné for a plate of perfect vitello tonnato and several glasses of Italian wine.

Panna cota, traditional Italian dessert. Image by KamranAydinov, from Freepik

Italians love a good dessert to crown a dinner with. Given their overall hedonistic attitude towards life – that passion for pleasure their cuisine largely stems from – this is not surprising. Some of the best known Italian desserts are, arguably, gelato and tiramisu, followed by panna cotta, which we suggest you eat in Turin for one of your dinners there, since Piedmont is where this marvelous sweet treat was invented.

Translated as “cooked cream,” panna cotta has a very simple recipe: it’s just cream, sugar, gelatin, and vanilla. Although this dessert, according to locals, has been around in Piedmont’s towns and villages for a long time – there’s a theory that it was invented by a Hungarian woman in the 19th century – panna cotta appeared in a cookbook for the first time only in the 1960s.

Done right, this Italian treat is silky, creamy, and somewhat wobbly, delivering a whole rainbow of emotions when enjoyed after a hearty dinner with a cup of coffee. If you want at least one evening in Turin to feel absolutely perfect, wrap it up with a panna cotta.

Panna cotta is ubiquitous in Turin, made and sold in pretty much every bakery, pastry shop, and restaurant with desserts. It’s next to impossible to suggest one place that cooks this treat better than everyone else, since such appraisals are always subjective. So, for this dish, we just picked a highly-rated establishment in Turin’s center: Poormanger at Via Maria Vittoria, 36, score of 4.5 at 7,500+ appraisals, and counting. There are other locations of this chain in town, too, so if you happen to pass an outlet by somewhere else, drop in for a panna cotta.

If you have a sweet tooth that’s prejudiced towards chocolate, Turin is positively your destination. This city has been in chocolate making since the 1560s, which makes it one of the oldest centers of this business in the Old World. Today, Torino produces up to 40% of all Italian chocolate.

So, there’s a set of treats in Turin revolving around chocolate you positively have to try.

1. Bicerin, Turin’s drink of espresso, milk, and hot chocolate, all layered in a glass.
2. Cremino, a three-layered sweet from Turin, the top and the bottom of gianduja chocolate (70% chocolate, 30% hazelnut paste), and the middle layer of lemon, coffee, or hazelnut paste.
3. Gianduiotto, gianduja chocolate shaped like ingots, sold in individual foil wraps.
4. Boero, dark chocolate candy holding a cherry and some liqueur inside.

The list is non-exhaustive; come to Guido Gobino, Guido Castagna, Peyrano Chocolate Shop, Stratta, or Pfatisch for a taste, and you’re likely to learn much more about the sweet side of Turin!